I first visited Oaxaca back in the mid-1960's, and have been in love with this area ever since. Especially for me, as a weaver, the local culture, which includes a lot of indigenous weaving traditions, is hugely artistically appealing. What I hadn't foreseen, is the amount of modern art that is present here, from public statues and street art, to many studios of artists of all types. The same goes for music, with quality modern jazz offerings, and symphony music as well. Oaxaca is well known for it's food, but I hadn't realized the health food movement that is going on here, with vegetarian and health food restaurants and stores, and organic markets. More than any other place I know of in Mexico, this is a place that draws artists and creative types in many forms. I now think of Oaxaca as a Mexican combination of Sante Fe, New Mexico, and Berkeley CA.
There are negatives, of course, but I have yet to meet anyone that has moved here who remotely thinks the positives don't outweigh the negatives. Figuring out the local politics seems near impossible to me, and for sure you want to avoid having to deal with police and the courts if at all possible. But, unlike what can happen at border towns, I've never heard of people actually being hassled by the police, or even having to show ID.
It's taken some getting used to seeing police patrols with heavily armed police riding in the back of police pickups, or the large, heavily armed contingent of police that show up at events, such as the recent Father's Day festivities that just took place across the street from my apartment. Maybe it's because mescal was being served, or some past Father's Day event involved violence. One thing for sure though, no one, but no one, was going to get away with anything illegal with such a police show of force in place.
Oaxaca used to, to the best of my knowledge, have extremely safe streets. I'm afraid that's no longer the case, but I still can't say that it's hugely less safe than the typical USA city of it's size. Women especially need to learn a few rules of safety, such as not carrying a dangling purse, or keeping any unnecessary wealth on your person. Obviously, avoid certain areas at night, and be leary of streets with little traffic.
On the other hand, people in general are very friendly, and there is a large and active ex-pat community, even including an English language library that dates back to the 1960's. Especially appealing to me is the library's organized hikes, that will start up again in the Fall. Hiking events have long been a great way for me to find like minded friends.
Oaxaca is famous for it's food. The general area has a series of microclimates, so a huge variety of foods grow nearby, and are available in the many markets. Locally grown avocados are abundant and cheap, and are including with many restaurant meals, as well as the ever present street foods. While I find many of the restaurant meals to be lacking in fresh vegetables, the local farmers markets are certainly not, so it's easy to prepare wholesome meals at home. The health food and organic restaurants have fresh salads, and I've been happy to find quinoa and amaranth at little local stores within walking distance of where I live. Mangos, papayas, bananas and many fruits grow abundantly in people's yards, and are extremely cheap to buy at markets. I've never for a moment missed my Trader Joe's and Whole Foods shopping .... everything I need and more is available in little local markets.
People here luxuriate in time ... not money, but time. I notice the difference the most in the sounds of traffic. There IS a lot of traffic in the central area of Oaxaca, but, as much as the traffic is stalled to a standstill over and over, people don't honk their horns to try and get it moving again (fruitless anyway) but, like with much of Mexican life, simply wait. This is almost, to me, an excellent example of the difference between the rushed and hurried USA way of life, and the relaxed, slow moving life of Mexicans. Who needs the stress of being in a rush. Relax, and enjoy life! Viva Mexico!
Politics is strange here, and corruption seems to exist at every level. The current president, last I read, has a approval rating of 12%. That's down from 20% after he held a much publicized meeting with Donald Trump, when Trump was still campaigning for the presidency. If there is anyone less popular than Presidente Enrique Peña Nieto, it would be Donald Trump. I haven't seen a poll, but my guess would be an approval rating right around zero. I find this refreshing after living in the USA, where an astounding, to me, approval rating of 40% or so continues.
Mexican politics has long favored Spanish blood, and Oaxaca, with its predominant indigenous population, suffers. The public schools here are said to be the worst in the country, and teachers very militantly hold strikes and protests, to little avail. A revolutionary spirit thrives, and roads are blockaded, sometimes leading to bloodshed and even deaths. This had been going on for years, and if you Google "Oaxaca" images, many photos of blockades with fires burning, and police in full riot gear pop up.
On the other hand, Oaxaca enjoys long, stable, indigenous cultures that have survived many invasions and takeovers. I love living in an area where traditions go back hundreds, even thousands, of years. The wondrous weavings, painted wooden animals, and pottery of Oaxaca State continue to thrill and fascinate me. I've started a collection of hand woven rugs, and hope to expand into the other arts and crafts of the area as I continue to live the Oaxacan life.
People look at where Oaxaca is on a map, very far to the south of what anyone in the USA is used to, and think HOT! Well, in April and May, it certainly is, although I've lived in hotter places north of the border. Oaxaca sits at an elevation of 5000 feet, and just as May/June weather seems to get unbearable, the rainy season begins, and temperatures drop dramatically. My landlady, who grew up here, calls this the best time of the year. For a true report of Oaxaca weather, check out the Wikipedia Page. For me, I find it to be the best climate I've ever lived in.
Just to the north of town is a large "National Park." It's not anything like a strongly protected National Park in the USA, but, once the Oaxaca Lending Library gets its hiking events going again, I greatly look forward to exploring its nature, and many small villages. There is at least one eco-tourism place, and much to explore and enjoy. Oaxaca City is, without doubt, the most colorful place I've ever seen, let alone lived in. Photographing of the city, I feel, will never grow tiresome.
What more can I say? If you want to hear and see more, keep following this blog!
Jay
June 18, 2017
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